Gardening Tips and Tricks for Late Autumn

Preparing for the Winter Months: Gardening inthe most commonly used watering method, particularly
OctoberWhen you feel that first solid bite in thefor lawns and large areas. Sprinkler irrigation works
breeze and you see the songbirds winging their waybest with well-draining soils and shallow-rooted plants,
south, and the trees are bursting with fire-laden hues,or where a cooling effect is desired. But sprinklers
you know you can't be spending the weekend curledhave several disadvantages. They waste water, since
up by the fireplace with a good book. Not formuch of it is sprayed on areas other than the root
long.While the weather is still gardener-friendly, youzone around the plant. Because much of the water is
must shorten your "to-do" lists for the coming of latethrown high in the air, loss due to evaporation can be
fall and early winter. Now is the time to attack yoursignificant. Sprinklers can also foster fungal diseases
lawn and garden by planting your spring bulbs, buyingand other problems with some plants such as roses
and maintaining your trees and shrubs, doing your latethat don't like having wet foliage. Sprinklers require
autumn lawn care, using common-sense wateringgood water pressure and are best used on plants
strategies, building a compost bin and making your ownwhich are not in bloom. Several types of sprinklers are
compost, controlling the many common garden pests,available.Building a Bin and Making Your Own
and winning at the weed-whacking war before theCompostA bin will contain your compost pile and make
sudden onset of the fickle, cold and all-envelopingit more attractive as well as keep it from spilling or
winter season.Planting Your PerennialsPlant theblowing over into your yard. A circular or square
spring-flowering bulbs until the ground becomes frozen,structure can be made from fencing wire. The idea is
and prepare your tender but tenacious perennials forto push the compost material together to make it heat
the coming seasonal changes. Remember that in theup and rot properly. The bin should be at least three
milder climates, bulbs can still be divided andfeet wide and three feet deep to provide enough
transplanted. Plant hardy bulbs anytime before the soilspace for the spreading material. Use untreated wood
freezes, but it's best to plant them early enough so theor metal fence posts for the corners and wrap sturdy
root systems can grow before winter arrives. In somewire fencing around them. The fence mesh should be
climates, you can plant until Thanksgiving or evensmall enough that rotting materials won't fall out. When
Christmas. Late-planted bulbs develop roots in thethe compost is ready, unwind the wire and scoop from
spring, and may bloom late. But they'll arrive on time bythe bottom of the pile. Then re-pile the undecomposed
next year.Be sure to position the bulbs at their propermaterial and wrap the wire back around the
depth. They must be planted so their bottoms rest at aheap.Many hard-core gardeners feel that three
depth two-and-a-half times each bulb's diameter. Incompost bins are the best for serious composting. By
well-drained or sandy soil, plant an inch or two deeperbuilding a trio of bins you can compost in stages: one
to increase life and discourage rodents.Choosing Yourbin will be ready, one will be brewing and one will
Trees and ShrubsOctober is a wonderful time to shopalways be starting. Installing a cover, such as a plastic
for trees and shrubs at the nursery. They're nowtarp or a piece of wood, helps to cut odor, control
showing their best and brightest colors there. You canmoisture and keep out wild pests. You will also want to
plant them now and over the next few months, souse the right ingredients for a proper, lovely smelling
that strong, healthy roots will grow over the winter.Yourotting compost heap.It's easy to cook up your own
must carefully plan out your landscape to choosepile. At first, layer grass clippings with a dash of leaves
which trees you wish to plant for providing proper lawnand twigs to create a concoction that turns into humus,
coverage and the most beautiful scenery. When anthe best plant food. Added ingredients for the compost
appropriate tree is purchased, selected and planted incomes from everyday waste in the kitchen and yard.
the right place, it frames your home and beautifiesBut avoid any items that ruin your compost. Use green
your land, making both more enjoyable. Trees canmaterials such as fruit and vegetable scraps, eggshells,
greatly increase the resale value of property, and evencoffee grounds, and grass and plant clippings; and
save you on energy costs.Visualize your new trees atbrown materials, such as leaves, wood and bark chips,
maturity while realizing that some trees develop asshredded newspaper, straw and sawdust from
much width as height if given enough space tountreated wood. Avoid using any meat, oil, fat, grease,
develop. Picture each tree's size and shape in relationdiseased plants, sawdust or chips from
to the overall landscape and the size and style of yourpressure-treated wood, dog or cat feces, weeds that
home. Trees peaking at forty feet do best near orgo to seed or dairy products. These can befoul, spoil
behind a one-story home. Taller trees blend withand make smelly and rancid a perfectly good
two-story houses and large lots. Trees under thirtyproductive compost heap.There are two types of
feet tall suit streetside locations, small lots and enclosedcomposting: cold and hot. Cold composting is as simple
areas such as decks and patios.There are two basicas piling up your yard waste or taking out the organic
types of trees you will be considering for purchase.materials in your trash such as fruit and vegetable
Deciduous trees include large shade trees whichpeels, coffee grounds or egg shells and then piling
frame areas with a cool summer canopy and athem in your yard. Over the course of a year or so,
colorful autumn rack of superior colors. In winter, theirthe material will decompose. Hot composting is for the
silhouettes provide passage for sunlight. These treesmore serious gardener; you'll get compost in one to
can shade a southern exposure from summertimethree months during warm weather. Four ingredients
heat, and allow winter sunlight to warm the house.are required for fast-cooking hot compost: nitrogen,
Evergreen trees have dense green foliage that suitscarbon, air and water. These items feed
them for planting as privacy screens, windbreaks ormicroorganisms, which speed up the process of
backdrops for flowering trees and shrubs. But they aredecay.Concentrated Pest ControlSlugs and other
handsome enough to stand alone. They do not losepests don't disappear as the weather gets cooler.
their leaves, called needles, and provide year-roundYou'll find them at all life stages in October, from eggs
shelter and color. You should be sure to include a wideto youngsters and adults. For slugs, use whatever
variety of both kinds of trees in your landscape tomeasures you prefer, salt, slug bait or saucers of beer
avoid losing them to diseases or pests. Buy disease-to eliminate them. It's best to catch them at the early
and pest-resistant trees.When buying a tree, look forstages to stop the reproduction cycle. And keep the
healthy green leaves if it has any, and alsoground well-raked and tidied to reduce their natural
well-developed top growth. Branches should behabitat.Here's a list of common garden pests and how
unbroken and balanced around the trunk, and onto control them:Thrips: Adult thrips are about
dormant or bare-root stock they should be pliable.one-sixteenth-inch long and have dark bodies with four
Examine the roots, which should form a balanced,fringed wings. Their size makes them difficult to detect
fully-formed mass. Reject trees with broken orin the garden. They attack young leaves, flower stalks
dried-out roots. Avoid trees showing signs of disease,and buds. Spray young foliage, developing buds and
pests or stress such as wilting, discoloration, misshapenthe soil around the bush with an insecticide containing
leaves, scarred bark and nonvigorous growth. Consideracephate.Cane borer: This insect is the maggot of the
the size of the tree. Young trees have a better rate ofeggs laid by sawflies or carpenter bees in the
success when planted, and most flowering trees growfreshly-cut cane of the rose after pruning. One telltale
quickly, so start with less expensive, smallersign is a neatly-punctured hole visible on the top of the
specimens. And be sure and buy all your plants from acane. To remove the pest, cut several inches down
good quality nursery with a decent reputation.Don'tthe cane until there are no more signs of the maggot
prune a newly planted tree unless its form needsor pith-eaten core. Seal all pruning cuts with pruning
improving. Prune flowering trees in spring, aftersealer.Japanese beetle, Fuller rose beetle: These will
blooming, to correct unsightly problems. Crab appleeat parts of the foliage and sometimes the flowers.
trees are an exception and should be pruned in latePick beetles off the bush by hand. Or spray foliage
winter. But you can remove diseased or deadand flowers with an insecticide containing acepate or
branches anytime of the year, and much of this ismalathion.Leaf miner: This insect can be spotted on
done during the winter. Apply fertilizer when needed infoliage by the appearance of irregular white chain-like
the second and subsequent growing seasons. Mulch toblisters containing its grub. Remove foliage and discard
conserve moisture, reduce weeds and eliminateit to prevent further infestation.Spittle bug: This small,
mowing near the tree. Spread wood chips or bark fourgreenish-yellow insect hides inside a circular mass of
inches deep and as wide as the tree's canopy aroundwhite foam on the surface of new stems, usually
the base. But don't mulch poorly drained oversaturatedduring the development of the first bloom cycle in early
soil. Wrap tree trunks after planting to prevent winterspring. Spray a jet of water to remove the foam and
damage from weather and pests. And stake youngthe insect.Roseslug: When you see new foliage with a
trees, especially bare-root trees and evergreens, toskeletonized pattern, indicating that it has been eaten,
fortify them against strong winds. Stake loosely andchances are it's the roseslug. Remove the infected
allow the tree to bend slightly, and remove stakesfoliage and spray with insecticidal soap or an
after one year.Shrubs are often planted and usedinsecticide that contains acephate.Leaf cutter bee: As
merely as foundation plants or privacy screens. Butits name implies, this very small yellowish-green insect
shrubbery foliage is vastly more versatile, and can gojumps on the undersides of foliage to feast, often
a long way toward livening up your landscaping.leaving its white skin behind. The damage caused by
Countless varieties of gorgeously hued and beautifullythis insect often results in defoliation. Use an insecticide
leafed shrubs are available through nurseries andcontaining acephate or malathion to prevent it from
garden catalogs.You must start by learning whatestablishing a strong colony.Rose scale: This insect
varieties thrive in your area. Try visiting your localhides under gray scales, normally on old canes or
arboretum, where you may view different kinds ofstems. It feeds by sucking the sap, weakening the
shrubs and decide whether they fit your gardeningplant. If the infestation is localized, try removing it with a
plans. Decide what overall look you want at differentfingernail. Or spray with an insecticide containing
times of the year, and then find out which shrubs willacephate.Weed Whacking Made EasyActually, this is
be flowering, producing berries or sporting colorfula slight exaggeration. There's no rest for the wicked.
foliage at those times. Compare what you find to theKeep staying ahead of your nasty weeds all this and
inventory at your local nursery, and ask thenext month. They serve as Home Sweet Home for all
professionals who work there lots ofmanner of pests and bugs, and destroying them
questions.Understand the characteristics of each shrubbefore they flower and seed will save you much work
before you plant it. Flowering and fruit-bearing shrubsin the future.Preparation is the key. All gardeners know
enhance a new home, but improper pruning and carewhat it's like to have their yards invaded by
will ruin the beauty of all your hard work. Some shrubsunwelcome plants. Although there's no really easy way
bloom on second- or third-year wood. If you'reto banish weeds, there are a few solid techniques you
maintaining a shrub because you're hoping it's going tocan use to reclaim your turf. At the very least, you can
blossom, but you're cutting off first-year wood everylimit this utmost in hostile takeovers.Here is a simple
year, it's never going to bloom.Some varieties are aoutline of effective battle strategies you can use in the
foot tall at maturity, while others reach over fifteenfall:1) Be a mulching maniac. Mulch acts as a
feet. A large shrub will usually require more pruning.suffocating blanket by preventing light from reaching
Also determine the plant's ability to tolerate various soilweed seeds. At the same time, it holds moisture for
conditions, wind, sun and shade. You don't put a plantyour plants and provides nutrients for your soil as it
that's sensitive to the elements in an open area. Usedecomposes. Apply coarse mulch, such as bark or
hardier plants to shelter it.Not all shrubs work in everywood chips, directly onto soil. Leaves, grass clippings, or
climate. Witch hazel, for example, blooms in fall orstraw work better as a weed deterrent with a
winter and is hardiest where minimum temperaturesseparating layer of newspaper, cardboard or fabric
range from thirty degrees below zero to twentybetween them and the soil.2) Water those weeds.
degrees above. It would not be a good choice forPulling weeds is easier and more efficient when the
very dry, hot climates. But some shrubs such assoil is moist. You are more likely to get the whole root
buddleia, hydrangea and spirea perform well across asystem, and your yanking won't disturb surrounding
wide range of growing zones.Late Autumn Lawnplants as much either. No rain? Turn on the sprinkler or
CareAerate lawns in mid- to late-October, while theeven water individual weeds, leave for a few hours
grass can recover easily. If you core aerate, makeand then get your hands dirty. Just ignore the strange
your cores three inches deep, spaced about every sixlooks from your neighbors as you lovingly water your
inches. Break up the cores and spread them around. Ifweeds.3) Cut weeds down in their prime. Weeds love
your lawn needs it, thatch and follow with a fall oropen soil. But if you till or cultivate and then wait to
winter fertilizer. Even if thatching isn't needed, yourplant, you can outmaneuver the weeds. Till the ground
lawn will be happy for a dusting of fertilizer to helpat least twice before you plant. Your first digging will
roots gain strength before the spring growing season.bring dormant weed seeds to the surface where they
Overseed bald patches or whole lawns as needed.can germinate. Watch and wait for a few weeks until
Rake and compost leaves as they fall, as well asthey begin to grow. Then slice up the weeds again
grass clippings from mowing. If left on the ground now,with a tiller or a hoe, only don't dig as deep. Now it
they'll make a wet, slippery mess that's inviting toshould be safe to put precious plants into the soil.4)
pests.Good gardeners use heavy-duty molded plasticPass the salt. Try sweeping rock salt into crevices
for shaping neat edges of beds. You can buy thesebetween paths. Although more harsh, borax also
from garden centers, nurseries and mail order suppliersworks well. Be sure to wear rubber gloves with the
in rolls of flat, four- to six-inch-tall plastic, and the edginglatter material. You might need to apply a few doses,
installs easily. You'll save yourself countless hours ofbut be aware of any surrounding plants because both
removing grass and weeds that otherwise creep intoproducts kill the good plants along with the bad.Food
your beds.Watering Your Lawn and GardenYou can'tfor ThoughtIn addition to performing these autumnal
forget about watering in the middle of fall. Thelawn and garden duties, you may want to harvest
summer's long over, but proper moisture now is key toyour fall vegetables such as the perennial squashes.
your plants' survival over the cold winter months.Do a taste test and harvest them when flavor is at its
You're likely to hear two pieces of advice on watering.peak. If you'd like to extend the harvest of carrots,
One is that you should give established plants an inchturnips and other root vegetables, leave some in the
of water per week, whether from rain or irrigation. Theground to mulch as the weather gets colder. Early
other is that personal observation of your own gardennext month, before temperatures drop too much, seed
is the only way to judge how much water it needs.cover crops such as clover, peas or vetch to enrich
One fact about which there is more agreement: thethe soil. It will serve as a natural fertilizer, stifle weed
ideal is to maintain constant moisture, not a cycle ofgrowth and help loosen up the soil for next year's
wet soil followed by dry soil.Although overwatering cancrops.As for your houseplants that you've put outside
be as big a problem as underwatering, most gardenersfor the summer, if September was mild enough that
err on the side of too little. Your needs will varyyour geraniums and other such plants are still outdoors,
through the year depending on the rate ofbe sure to make them cozy inside before the first
evapotranspiration in your garden. Evapotranspirationfrost takes a bite out of them. Take geranium cuttings
refers to the two ways that plants lose water. There'sof two to four inches to root indoors. If you treat
evaporation, the loss of water to the air from soil,houseplants chemically, be sure to keep them warm
water and other surfaces. Then the other way isand away from direct sunlight. Fertilize houseplants
called transpiration, or water lost primarily from thenow and they won't need it again until March. And
leaves and stems of the plants. You can often obtainremember to get your poinsettias and your
evapotranspiration rates for local areas from waterThanksgiving and Christmas cacti ready for well-timed
departments and other agencies. You will see aholiday color. Give them a daily dose of ten hours of
graphic description of how a plant's natural need forbright daylight or four hours of direct sun and fourteen
water changes during the growing season.In thehours of night darkness. Cacti need a cool environment
meantime, keep these pointers in mind:1) Water whenof fifty to sixty degrees, while poinsettias prefer a
it's needed, not according to the calendar. Check thewarmer sixty-five to seventy degrees. Be sure and let
top six inches of the soil. If it's dry and falls apart easily,your cacti dry out between waterings.For a true
water. Your plants will also show signs that they needgardenaholic, winter is often considered to be the
water. Wilting, curling or brown leaves mean that yourenemy. But with a few steps toward preparation in the
plants may lack adequate water. Meanwhile, bear inearly- to mid-fall, you can take care of your lawn,
mind that excess water creates a lack of oxygen ingarden and houseplants in a way that will keep them
plants, making them show similar symptoms tothriving and surviving until the dawning of yet another
underwatering.2) Water slowly, not more than one-halfmost welcome and bountiful springtime.The information
inch of water per hour. Too much water can be lost toin this article was gleaned from the MSN House and
runoff. This is why handheld watering cans or handheldHome website and the Better Homes and Gardens
hoses generally work only for watering small areas.3)website.RAINBOW WRITING, INC. -- featuring Karen
Water deeply. With established vegetables andPeralta, copy editor, ghost writer and book author --
flowers, six inches is a minimum. With trees and shrubs,EXPERT FREE DOWNLOAD COMPUTER FIXER
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