Pilgrim's First Thanksgiving Fare

It's not Rocket Sallet... until it is.century.
Vegetables and organ meats shared a split personalityLettuce is a salad herb, too, just not necessarily the
for the Pilgrims in the 17th century. On the one hand,first thing you think of for salad. It seems to travel back
they're dainty morsels, served with verve and flair onand forth between the dainty and the common. Just
the noblest of tables; on the other hand, they're the bitslike now. Think of the difference between iceberg
that are left to serve the poorest of the poor. Let'slettuce and baby Bibb. There are other leafy greens
save offal for another day - there's a great haggisbetwixt and between dainty and common. Arugula,
controversy bubbling up in food history circles...I'll keepknown as rocket to 17th century Englishmen (and
you posted. But back to vegetables.hence, rocket salad), spinach, endive, beets... If the
I'm sure you all remember back to the third gradetechnology is working for me today, (Buddy, I'm
when you learned that the natural world is divided intocounting on you for backup!) there is a lovely image of
animal, mineral and vegetable. And that's exactly whata second year beet. But, wait a minute, aren't beets
a vegetable was in the 17th century - that whole largered things that grow underground - this are large and
category of trees and vines and shrubs and grainsgreen and waving in the breeze - and what's with this
and shrubs and reeds and cetera - not just the plantssecond year business?
you grow for your plate (like at the first Thanksgiving).Side-bar on beets: what we now call Swiss chard is
If you grow it in your garden, particularly your kitchenthe beet of the 17th. What we now call beets is the
garden, then it's an herb. Cabbage is an herb. Carrot isbeet root, or Red Roman beetroot of the 17th century.
an herb. Rosemary and rue are herbs. Parsley, sage,How did it become Swiss? I haven't a clue, but it
thyme - herbs. Turnip, asparagus, skirret - also herbs.doesn't happen until the 19th century. As for the chard
There are sun-categories of herbs, often overlapping:part - that comes from the rib in the center of the leaf,
pot herbs, sweet herbs, physic herbs, herbs forwhich harkens back to the card in the cardoon....Why
strewing, and of course, salad herbs.hasn't anyone written the Secret Life of Beets?
The Pilgrim's salads were made of herbs. Like soPerhaps in my copious free time....Beets form seed in
much else in the 17th century, there is a hierarchy oftheir second year, so you have to hold a few through
herbs, too. Cabbages, kales and coleworts (we knowthe winter to get more beet seeds.
then as collards) - common, definitely food of the poor.Salads are usually boiled. Eating raw plants was
Easy to grow, easy to keep, good for a long time insometimes fashionable, was sometimes disdained.
the garden, keep well after they harvested. CabbagesGenerally, cooking food made it more artificial (meaning
are also considered to be 'windy' - Nickolas Culpeppervery artfully), which wass a good thing for the Pilgrims
compares them to bagpipes and bellows...not dainty,in the 17th century because then it is improved by the
even then! Garlic is considered to be 'poor man'shand of man. Cooked food was also supposed to
treacle' - good for whatever ails the poor. It's alsobetter for your digestion.
generally assumed that the poorer sorts are doingSo if boiled green beans or spinach or endive or Swiss
more physical labor, and therefore have more heat,chard have ever turned up on your table, then you
hotter digestion, or decoction of their food. (That'shave been making boiled salads unawares. In the 17th
Doctrine of Humours in 25 words or less!)century Dutch cookbook The Sensible Cook there are
Asparagus, artichokes, broom buds, sapphire, purslanerecipes for boiled salads, and then there are recipes
(not the nasty garden weed - proper garden purslane),for various herbs, like boiled cabbage and boiled
cowslips, gillyflowers are all dainties. Beancods - plaincauliflower that are not called salads, just a dish of....
ole green beans to us now - dainty. Potatoes are aSo much for theory. Soon - Thanksgiving recipes.
dainty - that's gonna change, but not until the 18th