Fried Chicken

American-style streamed chicken relies on a thick,streamed chicken, or fricassee, from Vietnam's
well-seasoned crust, often made even thicker byGà Xaò to Italy's pollo fritto. It is thought
soaking the chicken pieces beforehand in buttermilk.that the Scottish people who settled the early South
When that crust is nubbly and evenly browned, andintroduced the method here in the United States. They
the chicken meat is cooked through, the chicken ispreferred to fry their chickens, rather than baking or
sublime. But too often, the flesh is still raw when theboiling them as the English did. It wasn't until the early
crust is cooked, or the skin never cooks all the way1900s that recipes for fried chicken began appearing in
through, leaving a flabby layer of skin between thepopular "northern" cookbooks.
meat and the crust.Very simply, the chickens are cut up, dredged in flour,
Korean-style streamed chicken is radically different,sprinkled with a little salt, put in a skillet with hot fat, and
reflecting an Asian frying technique that renders outfried until golden brown. Through the years there have
the fat in the skin, transforming it into a thin, crackly andbeen hundreds of attempts to improve upon her
almost transparent crust. (Chinese cooks call thisrecipe, and plenty of tricks and special touches, but
“paper fried chicken.”) The chicken isthey are all simply minor variations on the original. Mary
unseasoned, barely dredged in very fine flour and thenRandolph mentions making a gravy with the
dipped into a thin batter before going into the fryer."leavings", but the cream sauce so often
The oil temperature is a relatively low 350 degrees,served with streamed chicken seems to have
and the chicken is cooked in two separate stages.originated with the dish "Maryland fried
Southerners weren't the first people in the world to frychicken".
their chickens. Almost every country has a version of